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“The Devil's Miner” is the story of 14
year-old Basilio Vargas and his 12 year-old brother Bernardino, as they
work in the Bolivian silver mines of Cerro Rico, which date back to the
sixteenth century. Through the children's eyes, we encounter the world of
devout Catholic miners who sever their ties with God upon entering the
mountain. It is an ancient belief that the devil, as represented by
hundreds of statues constructed in the tunnels, determines the fate of all
who work within the mines.
Raised without a father and living in
virtual poverty with their mother on the slopes of the mine, the boys
assume many adult responsibilities. They must work to afford the clothing
and supplies vital to their education. Basilio believes only the mountain
devil’s generosity will allow them to earn enough money to continue the
new school year. Without an education, the brothers have no chance to
escape their destiny in the silver mines.
HISTORY OF THE CERRO RICO SILVER MINERS
In the 16th century, when the Spanish
conquistadors invaded the South American highlands, they discovered a
treasure so valuable that it financed the Spanish wars for centuries. It
was a cone-shaped mountain they named Cerro Rico, the Rich Pinnacle.
Cerro Rico turned out to be the largest silver find in the history of the
Americas. The mountain provided over two thirds of the world's silver
demand and funded the rise of one of the richest cities in its time -
Potosi. But the splendors of Potosi came with the price of human
misery. The Spanish enslaved the local Indios, and forced them to dig for
minerals under inhumane conditions. Over the last four centuries, it is
believed that over eight million workers perished in the mines.
Today, 9,000 Potosi miners - often referred
to as the “Scavengers of Cerro Rico”- continue the job daily with
primitive means of protection and equipment. At an average altitude of
15,000 feet, breathing is labored, fatal accidents are frequent and most
miners fall victim to the black lung disease by age forty. Working in a
maze of over 20,000 tunnels, the miners make it their mission to find any
remaining valuable minerals overlooked during the Spanish rule. Many
families participate in the infinite search, with hundreds of children
working inside the mountain. Sadly, Cerro Rico has been depleted of most
of its silver abundance, and Potosi's wealth has long vanished.
Seeking safety in the dangerous conditions,
the miners honor the devil. They call him “Tio” or “Uncle” and fervently
believe he is the sole ruler of the underworld with the power to protect
and destroy. He is the true owner of the minerals. The miners have
constructed hundreds of devil’s chambers enshrining statues in his image
complete with bullhorns, teeth made of shattered glass with some standing
as high as ten feet. They make continuous offerings of alcohol, coca
leaves and cigarettes to Tio, who if treated well, may reveal a silver
vein of wealth and security.
With the Spanish missionaries came the
successful introduction of Catholicism. The Potosi miners today remain
devout Catholics, and there are over forty churches and convents
surrounding Cerro Rico. Inside the Devil Mountain however, the miners
fear Christianity could cost them everything, including their lives, so
they sever ties with God at the mine entrances. Frustrated yet
sympathetic priests watch them “double their armor” by praying to God on
one day as they worship the devil the next.
The dual worship of God and Tio reaches a
challenging climax during the annual Carnival when the miners stage a
large ceremony in the devil's honor. Embodied by hundreds of miners
dressed in lavish devil's costumes, Tio emerges from the mountain dancing
the Diablada, the Devil's Dance. Once the dancers reach the main plaza of
Potosi, they enter the ancient church of San Martin where they kneel down
to be blessed by a Catholic priest. In full costume, they begin mass and
ask God’s forgiveness for their sins. |