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“The Devil's Miner” is the story of 14 year-old Basilio Vargas and his 12 year-old brother Bernardino, as they work in the Bolivian silver mines of Cerro Rico, which date back to the sixteenth century.  Through the children's eyes, we encounter the world of devout Catholic miners who sever their ties with God upon entering the mountain. It is an ancient belief that the devil, as represented by hundreds of statues constructed in the tunnels, determines the fate of all who work within the mines.

Raised without a father and living in virtual poverty with their mother on the slopes of the mine, the boys assume many adult responsibilities.  They must work to afford the clothing and supplies vital to their education.  Basilio believes only the mountain devil’s generosity will allow them to earn enough money to continue the new school year.  Without an education, the brothers have no chance to escape their destiny in the silver mines.

HISTORY OF THE CERRO RICO SILVER MINERS

In the 16th century, when the Spanish conquistadors invaded the South American highlands, they discovered a treasure so valuable that it financed the Spanish wars for centuries.  It was a cone-shaped mountain they named Cerro Rico, the Rich Pinnacle.  Cerro Rico turned out to be the largest silver find in the history of the Americas. The mountain provided over two thirds of the world's silver demand and funded the rise of one of the richest cities in its time - Potosi.   But the splendors of Potosi came with the price of human misery.  The Spanish enslaved the local Indios, and forced them to dig for minerals under inhumane conditions.  Over the last four centuries, it is believed that over eight million workers perished in the mines.

Today, 9,000 Potosi miners - often referred to as the “Scavengers of Cerro Rico”- continue the job daily with primitive means of protection and equipment.  At an average altitude of 15,000 feet, breathing is labored, fatal accidents are frequent and most miners fall victim to the black lung disease by age forty.  Working in a maze of over 20,000 tunnels, the miners make it their mission to find any remaining valuable minerals overlooked during the Spanish rule.  Many families participate in the infinite search, with hundreds of children working inside the mountain. Sadly, Cerro Rico has been depleted of most of its silver abundance, and Potosi's wealth has long vanished.

Seeking safety in the dangerous conditions, the miners honor the devil.  They call him “Tio” or “Uncle” and fervently believe he is the sole ruler of the underworld with the power to protect and destroy.  He is the true owner of the minerals.  The miners have constructed hundreds of devil’s chambers enshrining statues in his image complete with bullhorns, teeth made of shattered glass with some standing as high as ten feet.   They make continuous offerings of alcohol, coca leaves and cigarettes to Tio, who if treated well, may reveal a silver vein of wealth and security.

With the Spanish missionaries came the successful introduction of Catholicism.  The Potosi miners today remain devout Catholics, and there are over forty churches and convents surrounding Cerro Rico.  Inside the Devil Mountain however, the miners fear Christianity could cost them everything, including their lives, so they sever ties with God at the mine entrances.  Frustrated yet sympathetic priests watch them “double their armor” by praying to God on one day as they worship the devil the next.

The dual worship of God and Tio reaches a challenging climax during the annual Carnival when the miners stage a large ceremony in the devil's honor. Embodied by hundreds of miners dressed in lavish devil's costumes, Tio emerges from the mountain dancing the Diablada, the Devil's Dance.  Once the dancers reach the main plaza of Potosi, they enter the ancient church of San Martin where they kneel down to be blessed by a Catholic priest.  In full costume, they begin mass and ask God’s forgiveness for their sins.

 

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